Nepal 2013

Another school holiday...another family vacation has come and gone...

We had a wonderful time in Nepal, this time we took the children. We will always go with Mountain Monarch now when we go to Nepal. They have been fantastic when we have home to them as a trekking group, a single female traveller and now as a family. They have set trips but once we told them what we wanted they adapted it to us. The only thing we really should have paid more attention to was the duration of the walking. It was an awful long way for young kids, eventually almost 29 miles. But if we had paid more attention and found out exactly how long the trek was, we may have possibly been put off and ended up cancelling that bit. As it turned out our kids were amazing and did so well.

So nearly 29 miles of trekking over 3 days, a 5 hour drive to Chitwan in the south to see the elephants for a couple of days, ride on the elephant through the jungle to see a rhino, some deer, some wild chickens, monkeys, and some site-seeing in the city for the remainder. It felt like we were away for three weeks!

Our flight is about 3 hours from Muscat but we were diverted to Lucknow in India because of huge storms over Kathmandu. We were on the ground to refuel for about an hour and ended up getting to Kathmandu after about 6 or 7 hours instead of 3. But we weren't bothered, just tired and safe at least. We were taken to our hotel, where I stayed last year. We had a late bite to eat and then got the kids to bed and then repacked our trekking gear so we could leave our other stuff at the hotel for when we came back.

We left at 9 the next morning and were driven to Sundarijil where we started our trek. We were doing a circuit around the hills surrounding Kathmandu. It was considerably uphill straight away and Pops was complaining early on. When the families do treks they have an extra porter to help out and he had got Pasang wrapped round his little finger. So he was carried for little stretches. But bless him, the steps were big for his little legs. About 6 hours later of climbing uphill we reached Chisapani and our teahouse, a very simple guesthouse but we'd sleep and wash anywhere after walking that much. The surroundings were beautiful. The GPS said we walked about 7 miles, with a considerable amount of ascent, nearly 4000ft. The weather was perfect, dry, not too hot.

The next day was going to be longer but not as uphill. Undulating it was called. But Pops walked the whole way this time and actually started to run and play along the way. This was about 7 hours and 14 miles. They both did amazingly. The trek was advertised as a family adventure trek so we thought it was catered to the ability of family with children. It was more than we imagined but the children kept going and bounced back within half an hour of stopping. So resilient. We headed to Nagarkot and a hotel at the top of the hill. This was stunning. We'd even drive there to go back to stay there for a couple of nights. The boy found some football on the tv, two Nepali teams so that was his downtime. Spectacular views in the morning, an amazing sunrise, one of the best I think I've seen.

The next day was a much shorter trek heading back to near the city, through the hill villages and fields. I was starting to hurt. Bear's ankle was starting to hurt so we stopped her before it could get serious. She was determined but I think glad that we made the decision for her. Pops was the ever-ready bunny. I think it was the prospect of getting a fizzy drink at the end. Bear went with the porter in the bus to meet us at the final point. We were all so exhilarated and so pleased with ourselves, it was such a nice feeling the kids saying they were pleased with themselves. We drove back to the city and had a wander around one of the squares. I took the kids to my favourite temple - it just looks amazing. We were quite keen at that point to get back to the hotel and descale and wash!

We got ready for the jungle and drove down the next day. A fantastic mountain road with loads of the typically decorated trucks and plenty of local life to watch. People wash at the local tap so you see women in sarongs washing themselves, men in trunks, naked kids getting washed...all discrete but natural to them.

 

We got to the lodge and after a bit of a to-do with the manager (two rooms were booked but he only would give us one key...all sorted once we called our contact in Kathmandu) we got to the rooms then had a bit to eat. A little nap then out for a cultural tour of the village. Saw heaps of marijuana growing along the sides of the roads, it was everywhere. But apparently not the good quality stuff, according to our guide. We were taken to the elephant area where they are fed and got ready for work in the jungle with the police/army (big poaching problem here). Bear and I fed an elephant...I was in tears, my favourite animal. I was in mixed feelings as they were chained up - that being my son's first question - but they have to, to not harm the visitors. But then why have visitors...to get the money coming in and increase the awareness to reduce the poaching. A catch 22 that I can't make up my mind with. It was amazing to see them and I loved being near them. We walked then along the river and ended up in the bar for sundowners. Full of tourists but actually we blocked it all out and watched the sun set and the elephants come down to bathe. We went back for dinner and then out again for a cultural show. Great fun and very exciting.

 

Next day was a canoe ride along the river in a carved canoe. This was really peaceful. We saw lots of crocodiles and kingfishers. Then we walked through the jungle, nice but a bit of a token effort. Didn't see anything except huge termite hills. We were also taken to the breeding centre. The ways they train the elephants is a bit shocking, fire, roped to a post with no food for a few days...but it's another vicious circle. One young elephant made to charge at Pops who was standing on the fence. The elephant was chained up but it obviously proved why they were chained up. Some had long chains, one didn't have any and this one that charged him was on a short chain. One baby elephant was rolling around down near the fence, so cute.

We went back to get changed so that we could go down to the river and have a shower from the elephants. The old ones are put in to retirement to do this so what better way that sitting in a cool river playing silly buggers with the tourists. On the way back we were caught in a Holi parade and we were covered in fragrant coloured powder, hilarious!

 

But the afternoon was the ride on the elephant through the jungle. To me it didn't matter if we didn't see anything, just to be that close to the elephants was super! But we did see lots of deer and a rhino! The elephant drivers were incredible, commands for everything even to move even slightly. We were dropped in the town at 4pm and ended up by the river for sundowners again. Slightly merry this time as we were there for two hours. The kids ended up stripping down and playing in the river. We decided to eat in the town for variety that night and had a wander. The locals tend to get drunk quickly but they are nice drunks! They did put police in the main square though just in case.

We headed back to Kathmandu the next morning, stopping at one town that has a new cable car, the only one in the country. It is mainly to take pilgrims to the main temple at the top of the hill, they used to walk up a massive incline for 5 hours to get to it. Anyway, it was festival time so lots going on. We walked to the top and got talking to a Nepali family there. They shared their food with us. Apparently not many tourists go up there so we were a bit of a novelty.

  So back in Kathmandu, we were all a bit jaded so an early night. Next day was Monkey temple in the morning. I went last year and didn't see any monkeys. This year they were everywhere. Then a trip to the climbing wall for the kids and out to Boudhinath stupa in the evening, my favourite place. The kids loved it and we ended up giving them our cameras so they were enjoying that. We met with my friend from last year. The next day was Kopan Monastery (where I think my parents think I sold my soul last year ;-p) for lunch. I had set the kids some activities so they carried those out over these few days. We were allowed to see the school; a very nice building!

 

We went to the children's home that I visited last year. We dropped off some clothes, pencils and paper and a football. Pops spent the three hours playing football in the yard and Bear made paper aeroplanes and drew with the girls. When is language an issue with kids?! It was a joy to see Indira the angel again. I imagined that she gets lots of visitors dropping stuff off but apparently she doesn't. I may try and get into the habit of boxing a few things up every now and then...just in the hope that it might get to her.

 

When technology and I see eye to eye again, I'll post more photographs up.

This Month's Artist - March

This could be a new feature for the blog…we’ll see how it goes. I only thought of doing it this month as I have discovered a new inspirational artist, both as a person and as an artist. I offer no insightful opinion or any criticism of whichever artist I happen to write about, I haven't done the course ;-) It would merely be  to introduce the artist just because I am enjoying their work at the time.
 

So this month it is Frida Kahlo.

 

As I wrote before, I am eagerly awaiting her biography. But my fascination started with her only last year really. I remember seeing one of her portraits in a magazine and was intrigued simply by the person I saw in the paintings. With strong Latino features, sombre expression but so full of colour. Then I recently saw the movie on her life staring Salma Hayek and was mesmerised. I was just captured by how she dressed, I would be like that every day! And she wore flowers in her hair, I LOVE that!

Frida Kahlo de Rivera (July 6, 1907 – July 13, 1954) was a Mexican painter. Her self-portraits are probably what she is known more for. Her vibrant and colourful work has been described for its “pain and passion”. Her work is apparently revered by feminists because of her simple and realistic approach to the female form and experience. I’m no feminist (I think!) and I just love her use of colour and brush. Her native culture and cultural tradition are features of her work and has been put into the naive or folk art category. These are new art movements for me so that’s my next research project! Even surrealism has been applied to her work. Subtly maybe, not quite a Dali..in my opinion, remember! Here’s a biography of her taken from http://www.fridakahlo.com/

Frida was one of four daughters born to a Hungarian-Jewish father and a mother of Spanish and Mexican Indian descent. She did not originally plan to become an artist. A survivor of polio, she entered a pre-med program in Mexico City. At the age of 18, she was seriously injured in a bus accident. She spent over a year in bed recovering from fractures to her spine, collarbone and ribs, a shattered pelvis, and shoulder and foot injuries. She endured more than 30 operations in her lifetime and during her convalescence she began to paint.

Source: www.egodesign.ca

 

Her paintings, mostly self-portraits and still life, were deliberately naïve, and filled with the colors and forms of Mexican folk art. At 22 she married the famous Mexican muralist Diego Rivera, 20 years her senior. Their stormy, passionate relationship survived infidelities, the pressures of careers, divorce, remarriage, Frida's bi-sexual affairs, her poor health and her inability to have children. Frida once said: "I suffered two grave accidents in my life…One in which a streetcar knocked me down and the other was Diego." The streetcar accident left her crippled physically and Rivera crippled her emotionally. 

Source: www.proa.org

During her lifetime, Frida created some 200 paintings, drawings and sketches related to her experiences in life, physical and emotional pain and her turbulent relationship with Diego. She produced 143 paintings, 55 of which are self-portraits. When asked why she painted so many self-portraits, Frida replied: "Because I am so often alone....because I am the subject I know best."
In 1953, when Frida Kahlo had her first solo exhibition in Mexico (the only one held in her native country during her lifetime), a local critic wrote:
"It is impossible to separate the life and work of this extraordinary person. Her paintings are her biography." 

At the time of her exhibition opening, Frida's health was such that her Doctor told her that she was not to leave her bed. She insisted that she was going to attend her opening, and, in Frida style, she did. She arrived in an ambulance and her bed in the back of a truck. She was placed in her bed and four men carried her in to the waiting guests.

Both Frida and Diego were very active in the Communist Party in Mexico. In early July 1954, Frida made her last public appearance, when she participated in a Communist street demonstration. 

Soon after, on July 13th, 1954, at the age of 47, Frida passed away. On the day after her death, mourners gathered at the crematorium to witness the cremation of Mexico's greatest and most shocking painter. Soon to be an international icon, Frida Kahlo knew how to give her fans one last unforgettable goodbye. As the cries of her admirers filled the room, the sudden blast of heat from the open incinerator doors caused her body to bolt upright. Her hair, now on fire from the flames, blazed around her head like a halo. Frida's lips seemed to break into a seductive grin just as the doors closed. Her last diary entry read: "I hope the end is joyful - and I hope never to return - Frida.".

Her ashes were placed in a pre-Columbian urn which is on display in the "Blue House" that she shared with Rivera. One year after her death, Rivera gave the house to the Mexican government to become a museum. Diego Rivera died in 1957. On July 12th, 1958, the “Blue House” was officially opened as the “Museo Frida Kahlo”.

Frida has been described as: "…one of history's grand divas…a tequila-slamming, dirty joke-telling smoker, bi-sexual that hobbled about her bohemian barrio in lavish indigenous dress and threw festive dinner parties for the likes of Leon Trotsky, poet Pablo Neruda, Nelson Rockefeller, and her on-again, off-again husband, muralist Diego Rivera."

Today, more than half a century after her death, her paintings fetch more money than any other female artist. A visit to the Museo Frida Kahlo is like taking a step back in time. All of her personal effects are displayed throughout the house and everything seems to be just as she left it. One gets the feeling that she still lives there but has just briefly stepped out to allow you to tour her private sanctuary. She is gone now but her legacy will live on forever….

One of the first shots of the film is of her house in Coyoacan. Bright blue walls, colourful flowers and plants, pieces of art. I would love to have a house that I could just paint and design for ME, in my style, to call my own. (I once painted our living room orange. Every wall. With terracotta stencils.) So the house she lived in for most of her life is now a museum...here is a link to the Trip Advisor reviews. It's on my wish list!

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/proggirl1/3219574891/

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bokononist/5861641618/

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/7593077@N03/2981887849/

Through my research on Frida I found this great post highlighting the person Frida was. Never embarrassed and true to herself. I'm trying to live this way! Thanks amber, a lovely and inspiring post about this incredible woman.